Shuggie’s Trash Pie + Natural Wine doesn’t look like any restaurant that’s opened in San Francisco lately — or maybe ever.
Owners David Murphy and Kayla Abe describe their pizza-and-small plates restaurant, opening April 22 at 3349 23rd St., at Bartlett Street, as “Hollywood Regency meets roller disco.” Occupying the former Velvet Cantina space in the Mission District, it spans two rooms, each with its own monochromatic theme.
The sultry green room is decked out with hand-shape chairs, fringe lampshades and a mirrored backsplash, while the brighter yellow room features a lip-shape sofa, disco balls and not one but three cheetahs. There’s a green peeing-boy fountain — a replica of the Menneken Pis in Belgium — near the bottle shop. The bars are blindingly glittery.
Top photo: At Shuggie’s Trash Pie + Natural Wine, the restaurant’s focus on reducing waste extends to both food and decor, such as this Elvis lampshade, from left; a vegetable dish made with unwanted produce; and a decorative element saved from landfill. Above: The restaurant is on the corner of 23rd and Valencia streets in the Mission District.
The maximalist, 1970s-esque bedazzled look sometimes extends to what goes on the plate, too. Take the dessert, playfully dubbed “two bites of chocolate.” Two bites worth of chocolate pot de creme sit at the bottom of a sundae glass topped with banana-creme fraiche mousse, walnut butter and crispy banana skins. The final touch? A shower of edible pink glitter.
“I want it to look like the most stupid, Lisa Frank thing you’ve ever seen,” Murphy said, referring to the whimsical, rainbow-colored designs aimed at children. “I don’t want people to think too much.”
Someone thinking, however, might say, “Wait, crispy banana skins?”
The yellow room includes a leopard mural painted by co-owner Kayle Abe at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
Hand-shaped chairs rest in the green room at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
Yes. The funky vibe isn’t purely about aesthetics. The restaurant also has a serious mission: to reduce food waste and combat climate change.
Rather than throw out the banana skins, which are too tannic to eat, Murphy figured out a secret way to peel back the bitterness and fry the skins for waste-free crunch. The walnuts, too, were rescued from being tossed — they’re discolored walnuts that are too dark to sell through conventional channels.
“I think people are more willing to listen if the food is approachable and they have a great time,” co-owner Abe said.
Shuggie’s is the dream of owners Kayla Abe (left) and David Murphy, here with their dog, Beef. Says Murphy: “I want it to look like the most stupid, Lisa Frank thing you’ve ever seen. I don’t want people to think too much.”
Most of Shuggie’s menu is focused on using ingredients that would otherwise go to waste, including irregular produce, byproducts from food manufacturing and less-used cuts of meat. That means the menu will change often, as chef Murphy figures out how to use, say, wilted greens that a local farm needs to offload or cheese that’s slightly too old for grocery stores to want.
Murphy and Abe are already established food-waste activists who have diverted more than 40,000 pounds of produce with their pickle company, Ugly Pickle Co., which sells jars at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Murphy, meanwhile, used to be a chef at restaurants like San Francisco gin bar Whitechapel and Menlo Park fine-dining spot Madera. Shuggie’s is their first restaurant, allowing them to tackle food waste that can’t be pickled.
A live nudes neon sign hangs inside a gender neutral restroom at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
A copy of The Statue of David stands inside a gender neutral restroom at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
An Elvis lampshade sits on a countertop in the green room at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
A ceramic leopard sits in the yellow room at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
The idea is diners will start off with a bottle of organic, low-intervention wine and some small plates, such as Buffalo Everything, a sushi-less sushi boat full of chicken livers, gizzards, necks and a couple of wings topped with a buffalo-Calabrian chile sauce. Pickles will be fried, tempura style, with a side of shiso ranch made with surplus buttermilk.
Then come the pies. Murphy calls them grandma-style pizzas, though they’re really their own thing entirely: rectangles with unusually thin, extra-crispy crusts and different textures throughout each bite. That variation comes from the dough, which is made with spent oat flour, a byproduct of making oat milk, and whey, a byproduct of the cheese-making process. Shuggie’s will sell six or seven pies per day, often topped with sauce made from bruised tomatoes. Certain ingredients don’t fall in line with the restaurant’s mission but feel like requirements, such as pepperoni.
Bobo?•s The Pep, The Roni trash pie - grandma style thin squares - includes pepperoni, honey, chili, and ricotta fluff at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
The Two Bites of Chocolate dessert includes pots de creme, aerated banana, banana peel crispies, and stardust at Shuggies, a new food waste-focused restaurant in the Mission, on Tuesday, April 12, 2022, in San Francisco, Calif. Owners Kayla Abe and David Murphy aim to turn food that would otherwise be wasted (for example: bruised produce, carrot tops or offal cuts) into thin grandma-style pizzas and small plates, all washed down with natural wine. Shuggies is located at 3349 23rd St.
Beyond natural wine, Shuggie’s will also employ a slushie machine for frosé (frozen rosé), pina coladas and a rotating slushie featuring blemished fruit. Expect some fun glassware in addition to seashell-shaped plates and a dish that looks like a lipstick-stained mouth. For the most part, Murphy and Abe made, thrifted or upcycled all of the wares, decor and furnishings. It falls in line with their no-waste mission — and their hope to make education about climate issues feel fun.
“I hope nobody is afraid of nudity,” Murphy said, holding a dish in the shape of a female bust, “because we have a lot of it.”
Fried pickle kakiage at Shuggie’s restaurant in the Mission includes green onion roots, squash scraps and Ugly Pickle Co. pickles.
This story was updated after the restaurant faced a delay and announced a new opening date, which is April 22. A previous version of this story misstated the cross street, which is Barlett Street.
Shuggie’s Trash Pie + Natural Wine. Opening April 19. 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 5 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday. 3349 23rd St., San Francisco. www.shuggiespizza.com
Janelle Bitker is the senior editor of Food & Wine. Email: janelle.bitker@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @janellebitker
Janelle Bitker joined The San Francisco Chronicle in 2019. As the food enterprise reporter, she covers restaurant news as well as Bay Area culture at large through a food lens. Previously, she served as a reporter for Eater SF, managing editor at the East Bay Express, and arts & culture editor at the Sacramento News & Review. Her writing has been recognized by the California Newspaper Publishers Association and Association of Alternative Newsmedia.